View Full Version : Painting Dash
Timmos
09-02-2010, 06:24 PM
Hey guys, i recently painted my dash and center console etc.. I went to autobarn and purchased some of the same color paint as my car, thought it would be a good idea.
So i took everything apart, primed it 2 times, sprayed with the blue paint 2 times and clear coated 2 times.
about a month later, the paint started fading on the top, i can only assume due to the sun and some of those 45 degree days we had!!
So i decided to go back to autobarn, purchase more paint of what i assumed was the same color and begun sanding back the layers of clear coat, and sprayed over the top of the paint. Little did i know, bloody auto barn had sold me the wrong color and blend (so i've been told), and as a result actually melted the first few coats.. Well i won't post any pictures of it as it's REALLY embarrassing and ugly! i've just spent the last 2 days sanding back.
My Question is now, I've begun the process of respraying and done my layers of primer and first layer of paint.. But I'm getting these awful bubbles all throughout the paint.. How do i fix this.. Can i assume they will slowly disappear as i continue to spray and sand? or could this be because i've gone with a slightly cheaper paint..
Thanks guys..
domn8
09-02-2010, 07:39 PM
When my mates painted all there interior, when it bubled there wasnt much they could to but to sand it right back and do again, however they didnt know that much into it (i mean cmon they sprayed the dash mat the tool lol). but yeah thats just what i know there prob is another way, thats just my 2 cents
Timmos
10-02-2010, 06:47 AM
When my mates painted all there interior, when it bubled there wasnt much they could to but to sand it right back and do again, however they didnt know that much into it (i mean cmon they sprayed the dash mat the tool lol). but yeah thats just what i know there prob is another way, thats just my 2 cents
Sprayed the dash mat? lol.
Yeah i am fearful i have to sand it right back, this should be rather paintful!
Tigerv8
10-02-2010, 07:33 AM
Perhaps you mixed acrylic paint with enamel paint? That can cause some bad things to happen on plastic.
domn8
10-02-2010, 07:34 AM
yeah he did it without my other mate and myself wasn't there (as we were all painting our cars) coz he knew exactly what we would of said to him :). I'll ask around for you though give me a day or so and should hopefully give you a better answer
Timmos
10-02-2010, 08:17 AM
Perhaps you mixed acrylic paint with enamel paint? That can cause some bad things to happen on plastic.
Yep, That sounds about right.
Timmos
10-02-2010, 08:17 AM
yeah he did it without my other mate and myself wasn't there (as we were all painting our cars) coz he knew exactly what we would of said to him :). I'll ask around for you though give me a day or so and should hopefully give you a better answer
Thanks
VTDude
10-02-2010, 12:07 PM
mine hasn't came up yet, what i did is i used Plastic primer, Touch up paint, and clear coat.
method: 3 coats of primer. 3 coats touch up paint. 3 coats of clear coat. the clear coat protects the paint and makes it more shiny thats why i did 3 coats
its been about 3 months now..no 4 month sorry and my car is usally in the sun. and the paint hasn't came off yet. or faded
domn8
10-02-2010, 01:25 PM
One thing i have gotten back so far.
"ok what has happen is you have used incompatible paint types. your first mistake was using normal paint to paint a dashboard there is special paint for this kind of stuff.
the reason your getting those bubles is because the fading was paint absorbing into the dash. so i belevie the only way to fix this is to replace the dash"
Timmos
10-02-2010, 07:37 PM
One thing i have gotten back so far.
"ok what has happen is you have used incompatible paint types. your first mistake was using normal paint to paint a dashboard there is special paint for this kind of stuff.
the reason your getting those bubles is because the fading was paint absorbing into the dash. so i belevie the only way to fix this is to replace the dash"
Damn, This is why i spoke with the guys at autobarn in the begining, so this didn't happen..
I'm over getting wrong advise, Well i'm gonna keep trying to sand it right back, see if i can get it back to the raw plastic.
Thanks for the help mate.
VTDude
10-02-2010, 10:24 PM
Well i dont think my advise is wrong, its what i used and like i said its ben 4 months now and the paint still looks brand new. I even actually slammed my keys into it and there is no scratch
Parish
10-02-2010, 11:45 PM
Damn, This is why i spoke with the guys at autobarn in the begining, so this didn't happen..
I'm over getting wrong advise, Well i'm gonna keep trying to sand it right back, see if i can get it back to the raw plastic.
Thanks for the help mate.
The only person that knows anything at Autobarn at Dural is taht old guy that owns the place maybe the middle aged guy evan is best mates with Evan. The rest are idiots. i asked one of them what was the best leather stuff he pciked up the closest one and said this is.
Lesson learnd. Ask Chris he painted the interior of his VP in white looks mint 3 years on.
Timmos
11-02-2010, 06:58 AM
Well i dont think my advise is wrong, its what i used and like i said its ben 4 months now and the paint still looks brand new. I even actually slammed my keys into it and there is no scratch
Yeah i'm fine painting it, i've painted my dash several times.. Obviously i've used the wrong type of paint ontop of another type of paint..
But my real problem are these airbubbles i can't seem to get rid of.
The last time i painted mine it lasted well over a year before starting to flake on some worn bits.. that was due to not using primer..
Thanks for the advise though
Timmos
11-02-2010, 07:00 AM
The only person that knows anything at Autobarn at Dural is taht old guy that owns the place maybe the middle aged guy evan is best mates with Evan. The rest are idiots. i asked one of them what was the best leather stuff he pciked up the closest one and said this is.
Lesson learnd. Ask Chris he painted the interior of his VP in white looks mint 3 years on.
I don't really understand what your trying to say.. But is that chris with the SS? i don't really talk to him..
domn8
11-02-2010, 07:26 AM
autobarn over in perth is the same no one goes there coz people there just dont care.
Good luck with fixing it with what ever you do mate.
Parish
11-02-2010, 03:18 PM
I don't really understand what your trying to say.. But is that chris with the SS? i don't really talk to him..
Lol what im trying to say is Autobarn is full of idiots.
Yeah SS chris. I spoke to him today is his VP commdore he said he did to layers of normal car paint. ie touch up paint then did one coat of clear. 3 years and not 1 crack or chip.
Timmos
11-02-2010, 05:39 PM
Lol what im trying to say is Autobarn is full of idiots.
Yeah SS chris. I spoke to him today is his VP commdore he said he did to layers of normal car paint. ie touch up paint then did one coat of clear. 3 years and not 1 crack or chip.
Yeah but they're nice there, and they give me practically anything for cost price!
Yeah that seems to be the way to go, Touch up paint.. hmm why does that sound expensive :P
CalaisBoy
11-02-2010, 08:53 PM
Was talking to a spray painting company the other day and they said that a special cleaner/ surface preparation solvent is necessary for good results on plastic.
Not sure what its called 'though.
Parish
11-02-2010, 11:59 PM
Was talking to a spray painting company the other day and they said that a special cleaner/ surface preparation solvent is necessary for good results on plastic.
Not sure what its called 'though.
Prepsol ?
CalaisBoy
13-02-2010, 08:46 AM
No, I know Prepsol is used on normal bodywork. He implied its something different.
Will let you know if I can get any further info.
TELF SS
13-02-2010, 10:50 AM
auto barn has it as there are two types one for metal and one for plastic
cant rememebr the name
but i used it for all my plastic show poles
Timmos
05-03-2010, 09:28 PM
Well it's been a while since i posted this.. and i've finally finished sanding back my dash...
i've got some before and after pics ill put up later on. it looked horrible.. lol
Well tomorrow i'll do the final light sand with some 320grit sandpaper to make sure its all nice n smooth for a total fresh splash of paint.
I've learnt alot from doing this, all about acrylic, enamel ,water based, oil based primers paints and clearcoats, and most importantly, thinners.
If i can give anyone advise about paint. When it comes to respraying something, as small as a dash or right up to a full car, make sure you do your research, find out the best meathods, what sort of paint reacts differently to each material your spraying. What sort of paint is already on what your painting.
Also, if your in the middle of painting something and you run out. Go back and get the exact same brand of paint, each brand uses different types and amounts of thinner.
AussieAnzac1
17-06-2011, 03:49 AM
Ive painted plenty of dashes/plastics over my years in z trade and it's one of the hardest materials to paint without sh.it goin bad. Yeh sounds like prob 2 diff paint types which will cause that (go find out wat the 1+2nd paints were then re post 4 me) but if u did put acrylic over enamel that will react like that, if it was other way round, as in enamel over top of acrylic it woulda been fine poss.
>>>From this point on>>>
1:u have to remove ALL substrates(paint/prima) but b careful not to rub it wt too harsh grade sand paper.
2:Prime with plastic primer or multi use basefix sealer plaztic prima, (must)
3:Re prime LIGHTLY 1st coat or two with 1k primer surfacer if using acyrlic/enam,1k or 2k prima if using 2pak.[priming too wet and heavy then painting b4 dry can cause bubled reaction too]build up light coats then rub down wt 400 or 600 wet/dry if panels r outa car+u want mint job(scotchbrite if primed nice n flat n panels still in car)
4:Apply 1st LIGHT/DUSTY coat of base color/paint, then let tack off(dry) for 5-10 mins, then another light/dusty coat+tackoff 4 10 mins (IF z bubbles aint come up at this point ur ok) then apply one or two wet/sorta heavy coats of clear or normal paint...(allow to dry natural=normal temp)
5:IF it still bubbles up like last time you can either rub parts down again 400 wet+dry, use basefix primer (seals the paints n crap underneath it then seals it) and instead of going to autobahn(worst place 2 go 4 paint) goto a proper paint shop and buy 2 pak clear over base style paint and 2k primer+suitable basefix and redo again using basefix or full rub down start again way, up to you...
>>> theres so many assort ways u can make a bad reaction happen wen doin plastics, could of even been a warm-humid day the day u painted it and the bubles are humidity blisters,could of been if u use armourall to wipe ur dash down-the silicone in those sorta sprays causes fish eye bubling, even some aftershave/perfumes will create frying up,its good to get to know a proper paint shop person who u can goto 4 advice on wat stuff to use and how to do it, and u can also BUY the right stuff z 1st time(i'd use 2pak on these parts,its tough-its sun resist-its real shiny-don't scratch as bad as other 2 paints)...
>>> Anyway timmos+anyone else reading this that wanted to know how to do plastic parts, hope this helped if still not sure post again more details or go pay to get it sprayed, lol....
<<<CHEK >>>>
AussieAnzac1
03-08-2011, 06:41 AM
Fk autobahn noobs, lol- they don't know a 6 cyl from a V8, let alone spec paint advice for hard stuff like dash-plastic stuff... When are the bubbles coming up-when ur putting ur coats o paint on or b4 or after, if there comin when ya painting it then-yeh its a reaction of one kind or other(primer>paint>enamel>acyrl>w.e)if the bubbles are when ur priming it let primer dry then dust it on n keep building it up slowly, if its bubbling after paint is dry then it's either garbage paint, delayed substrate reaction, or stuff like humidity blisters that like to hide for a few days/weeks then bit ya in the bum worst time...I would goto a REAL paint sales store n buy plastic primer, 1K/uni prima, 1 litre of 2pak color/paint, Wet-Dry sandpaper=400 grit+ 6or800 grit(2-3 sheets each grade),prepsol/wax n grease remover thinners(1 ltre)...
Rub all the previous crappy paint n whatever of parts using the 400 wet paper by hand till bak to OG plastic,then dry off n plastic prime it, next 1k/uni prime it- 1 n 2nd coats dust coats, then wet rub wt 6-800 wet(or dry if u good enuf) then paint wt the 2pack color doin a dust coat 1st to chek for a reaction, then 2 wetter coat, the 3rd coat is the real coat-make last coat glossy but not pooling/lake of paint cus o reasons too many to go into...Dont be scared to use 2pack, bad painters n noobs put that myth around all the time that 2k is mega hard to use- phewww it's gr8 to paint wt + use n u get 5-7 years from it versus 6month-Enamel + 6mnths-1year with acrylics...I've done dash parts 4 show cars in it(no ones come bak to me ever 4 re-works),motor parts, basically every part on a car n its the best for reasons above, it's good for motor parts that heat up (under 400' cels) n ive done a few tail light tints wt it too(clearcoat 2k wt a few drops o black in it) as it's way better than that Bs light tinting paint u get from AutoIdiot's that falkes off after 2 months n has no gloss factor, makeing lights done wt that stuff look like their ethiopion imports thatve been molested by a crew of bogouns in the bronx- lol. Ive done mag wheels n trims also in 2k paint, some wt a color base then clearcoat+some just clearcoat by itself, it makes the wheel look newer/shiny + protects a bit from chips n stuff as well as makes wheel cleaning alot easier also+painted all sorta o other items non Auto like my computer case Tv Unit for lounge room.
So yeh i'd use the 2k paint, main thing to do right using 2k is remove old/crappy paint-primer thats on item, unless it was 2k already(only pro's can tell by look/feel if its 2k)...Use the same method to paint wt as qikdry enamel or most of z primers that u have used b4-in terms of how u pump it on n build a glossy edge when painting the item,it's a bit less forgiving than enamels/acryls in terms of building up too much gloss=2k will run easier if u dont keep up wt where uve painted when doin a panel/part.Just keep an eye on the gloss trail that u see running along wt ur arm/sprygun as u paint n if in doubt bak right off from putting too much paint on n get it next coat, ur 1-2nd coats should=dusty(semi wet)coats anyway,to chek for reactions+so u wont get runs in ur last coats also.Let each coat Tack off(dry out)for about 5-10 mins b4 next coat, n try have room temp 15-25 degrees(25 perfect)...
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